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Thread: Maintenance: Initial Cleaning of Baikal IZH-27 / MP-27 O/U Shotgun

  1. #1
    Senior Moderator 12GAUGE's Avatar
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    Maintenance: Initial Cleaning of Baikal IZH-27 / MP-27 O/U Shotgun

    AoA Everybody

    A friend came over to my place asking about the initial cleaning procedure of his newly acquired "Baikal IZH-27 Over and Under Shotgun". I thought why not make a tutorial about it so that other esteemed PG members can also benefit from this exercise.

    Here it goes, but first a little disclaimer.

    The following content is for informational purposes only. The author assumes no responsibility or any liability in case of an injury, accident, loss of life or property that may or may not occur as a direct or indirect result of exercising the information provided below. The reader assumes full responsibility and liability of the foreseen or unforeseen consequences that may or may not occur therefore he/she is advised to proceed with full caution. In other words, if you screw this up, don't blame it on me

    Since we have that out of the way, lets begin. This time however I have decided to try a slightly different approach. instead of writing all the informational material here along with related pictures, let the pictures to do all the talking. if any point needs further explanation, that we'll discuss here on this thread. Kindly do not hesitate in asking any questions.



















    After this exercise you'll find that your gun will not only function more reliably but also more smoothly. every time I have done this to a new over and under the first thing that I've found that trigger greatly improves. the gritty-ness/creep in the trigger significantly is reduced. the opening and closing seems to become more fluid. in other words, the gun sort of a turns in to swiss watch. everything ticks the way it is supposed to.

    Regards.
    Last edited by 12GAUGE; 22-01-2011 at 12:46 PM.
    "The possession of arms is the distinction between a freeman and a slave."
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  2. #2
    Excellent tutorial sir. Glad i haven't shot my new gun yet. Going to go home and do this as the first thing.

  3. #3
    Administrator Abbas's Avatar
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    Fantastic ! I like the speech bubbles in particular

    May I ask what the latex gloves are for since the only picture of your hands is spraying the CLP and you're not wearing gloves in it ?

    Would also appreciate an equally descriptive cleaning of the barrel.

  4. #4
    Senior Moderator 12GAUGE's Avatar
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    @Abbas

    Thanks Abbas Bhai. The latex gloves are for handling and cleaning of the work piece after it has been sprayed with CLP. I always recommend them because CLP/lubricants/gun cleaning solutions might have solvents in them that can enter into the blood stream through contact via skin. therefore it is always advised to used latex gloves whenever handling such chemicals. thing with latex gloves is that they are air tight and inside your hands sweat alot. therefore I tend to minimize the discomfort by only wearing them when i'm actually handling chemicals or chemical drenched work pieces. since the aerosol can directs the blast in a focused area therefore I was in no danger of contacting the chemicals therefore I chose not wear gloves for this part. I did however wear them when I scrubbed it with a tooth brush. And you are absolutely right, the best practice should have been that I wear gloves the whole time during this exercise.

    about cleaning of the barrel. Abbas Bhai, that is probably the most easiest part in the initial cleaning of an over and under shotgun. all you need is a pull-through or a cleaning rod. some patches (no solvent necessary as it is a new shotgun) and just run it a couple of time through the bore and you are good to go. I will however start a new thread on cleaning a shotgun barrel that has just been fired. i'm thinking two processes at the same time. cleaning a barrel with a round count of 100 rounds (less messy operation) and a barrel with a round count of 1000 (a little tricky, slightly more messy).

    Regards.
    "The possession of arms is the distinction between a freeman and a slave."
    James Burgh, Political Disquisitions, 1774

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    Senior Moderator Denovo87's Avatar
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    Great Tutorial and thanks 12gauge bro for sooooooo easy to understand pictorial, I would call it "O/U SHOTGUN CLEANING FOR DUMMIES".. bravo.
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    Member Extraordinaire s.cheema's Avatar
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    nicely explained

  7. #7
    Job well done Gauge.
    "Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit soft". Roosevelt

    "A 9mm might expand to .45, but a .45 will never shrink to 9mm".

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    Nice Tutuorial Sir.
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  9. #9
    After the clp would there be a need to put a light film of oil on the internals?

  10. #10
    Member Bilal Malik's Avatar
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    Amazing - your affaction for this forum is matchless. One question - where to purchase this NASA Rusto and whats the price?

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    excellent, very good tutorial

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    Senior Moderator 12GAUGE's Avatar
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    @alinawaz

    Bro, CLP is infact a "cleaner, lubricant and a preservative" all rolled into one. the purpose of a CLP is to do all these jobs in a single application. a dedicated lubricant (without any solvents) is by far a much better option if lubrication is a primary concern which is not the case here.

    A shotgun's (o/u or sxs) internals do not require that much of a lubrication to begin with as they do not face the high levels of load, stress, friction, speed and heat typically associated with semiautomatic firearms such as handguns or autoloader shotguns.

    Therefore in my humble opinion, all you need is a good quality preservative for rust protection. lubrication here is only a secondary concern. therefore any CLP is good enough for the job. Even with a CLP, the application has to be kept to a bare minimum as lubrication is only a secondary objective. with too much lubrication here, one runs the risk of oil seeping into the wood which in the long run can ruin the shotgun's furniture through oil seeping into the wood.

    @Bilal Malik

    Bro, Nasa Rusto-Nil is easily available at most hardware/auto parts shops at around PKR 200 per aerosol can. you can also use brunox as well as it is also a more popular and probably a better CLP. in a pinch WD40 is good enough too but for applications where extended period of time is involved WD40 has a tendency to gum-up.

    Regards.
    "The possession of arms is the distinction between a freeman and a slave."
    James Burgh, Political Disquisitions, 1774

  13. #13
    Senior Member Sami's Avatar
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    A.O.A, very innovative and comprehensive. Dear any suggestions regarding wood care, is there any Lamination coat or polishing required or can be applied to a new stock. Really appreciates the effort. A-H
    A horse gallops with his lungs, perseveres with his heart and wins with his character.

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    Moderator Starfish's Avatar
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    great how to. Could you please include some more steps detailing the action take down procedure? It would be great help because i ahve seen many people stay away from screws during the dis assembly ( pins and levers are all right). It might give us better confidence to use a screw driver the next time around :P
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    Senior Member Mohammad's Avatar
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    excellent review 12 gauge
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    Enthusiast Xerga's Avatar
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    kya baat he. very nicely done..... this is how u make tutorials.

  17. #17
    Lord of War Mani's Avatar
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    nice explained Bro.

  18. #18
    Enthusiast BaderJanjua's Avatar
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    Informative tutorial

  19. #19
    Senior Moderator 12GAUGE's Avatar
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    @Stigma

    no need to apply anything to a new stock. let it be like that and enjoy till it starts to show some signs of wear and tear then we can resort to some corrective measures. for a new gun, in my humble opinion, there is not much you can do when it comes to furniture.

    @Starfish

    Bro, there is nothing much to taking down a shotgun's action (O/U only). its a relatively simple procedure.

    1. just unscrew the two screws holding the rubber recoil pad and take the recoil pad off

    2. insert the long flat head screw driver and unscrew the stock bolt. you'll need a really long screw driver for this (minimum 18 inches in length). unscrewing the stock bolt may require a lot of force. however care must be taken in this step. objective is to apply force and at the same time making sure that screw driver's head does not slip as it can destroy the stock bolts head/face.

    3. unscrew the screw holding the trigger guard to the buttstock then remove it.

    4. take out the action/receiver out of the slot where it fits in the buttstock and you are done.

    5. reassemble in reverse order.

    Regards.
    "The possession of arms is the distinction between a freeman and a slave."
    James Burgh, Political Disquisitions, 1774

  20. #20
    PakGuns Elite! AK47's Avatar
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    Excellent pictorial share, nicely arranged, professional exposure. Especially like the "Pakguns" inlay, should be a default in all pictorial postings.

    Thanks 12G bro for the detailed cleaning process. Nice gun, nicely portrayed.

    Regards.
    Laws that forbid the carrying of arms...disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes...Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage, than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man.

    "Take your time and deliberate, but when the time for action has arrived, stop thinking, and go in. "

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