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View Full Version : How to Oil and Service?



Yoosha
23-07-2009, 04:20 PM
i had a cple of questions regarding gun maintenence...
1) how should a pistol be oiled and serviced at home?
2) which oil/lubricant shud be used?
3) and how often to do it?

Fahim
23-07-2009, 04:26 PM
well just go through the earlier posts in the forum and i'm sure u ll get answer to each of the questions.!

SAJJAD ALI
23-07-2009, 04:34 PM
nice signature yoosha.

Yoosha
23-07-2009, 04:38 PM
thanx...
i have a knack of memorizing and then using extracts of texts which i like

Yoosha
23-07-2009, 04:50 PM
@ Fahim... i did, but cudnt find any relevant thread...

Fahim
23-07-2009, 05:26 PM
BE SURE YOUR WEAPON IS UNLOADED!!! You could shoot yourself or someone else and we really don't want that. Remove the MAGAZINE by pressing the MAGAZINE RELEASE BUTTON. BE SURE that the chamber is EMPTY by pulling back on the slide. Lock the slide open by pushing the slide catch lever up with the slide back. Look in the chamber (from the side not down the barrel) and make sure there is no bullet there.
With the slide locked open twist the slide disassembly latch down (clockwise) until it stops.
Completely remove the slide disassembly latch from the frame.

Carefully release the slide catch, and with the slide under FULL control, pull the slide forward off of the frame. - If the slide sticks on the frame, be sure the chamber is empty (YOU DID DO THAT, RIGHT???) and firmly pull the trigger fully to the rear while pulling the slide forward off the frame. - If the slide does not move because the barrel remains to the rear and tilted upward, be sure the chamber is empty and push the muzzle against the palm of your hand while pushing the slide forward with the other.
Take out the spring. Note: this is a spring. Be careful.
Take out the barrel and that's as apart as this gun ever needs to get without a gunsmith.
Use a wire brush to get all the really tough stuff out of the barrel. You should only push the brush in the direction that the bullet would travel. Do this a few times.
You don't need to remove the bore brush to pull it back through the barrel as the cleaning rod rotates provided that you grip it from the handle. Still always push the brush and the patch through the bore from the breech end of the barrel only, never from the muzzle end.
Wet a patch with solvent and run it through the bore a few times, then set the barrel aside and leave it wet with solvent. Go clean the frame/slide. By leaving the barrel to soak you allow the solvent to soften and losen any hard caked on fouling.
Now you come back to the barrel. Get several patches ready. Wet the bore brush with solvent and grip the cleaning rod at the base just above the handle and rotate the brush in the chamber first, this scrubs the chamber and headspace area. Next grip the t-handle of the rod and push all the way through the bore back and forth several times, allowing the rod to rotate in the bore as the brush contacts with the lands and grooves. Make sure the brush is screwed on tight and does not come loose from the rod when pulling it back through the bore, sometimes they tend to come loose making them ineffective on the pull through. Next attach your slotted jag and take a wetted patch and run it back and forth a few times through the bore. Make sure these patches fit reasonably snug in the bore. I like to to rotate them in the chamber first to allow the patch to swirl around the jag for better surface contact once in the bore. Repeat with a new wet patch a few more times and keep changing them until one comes out clean. When you are satisfied take a snug fitting dry clean patch and dry the bore. Hold your barrel up to a light and inspect it, or use a light. Is it clean? Any area where the is still fouling? If so, then repeat the barrel cleaning prosess until you are satisfied. About every 5000 rounds or so use a copper solvent to remove copper fouling from your bore. Just to keep it in check, copper fouling really isn't that detrimental to pistols as it is to accuracy in precision rifles. When using a copper solvent for copper removal make sure to use only a steel or aluminum rod and plastic bore brush and plastic slotted jag, no brass or bronze.
Put the cleaning rod through the barrel. Put a large patch (square piece of cloth from ur old T Shirt.. lolz) on the end of the cleaning rod, dip the patch in solvent and pull it through the barrel. Pull the patch through in the same direction as the bullet would travel. Repeat with a new patch until the patches comes out clean. You can then wipe the outside of the barrel with a patch and solvent.
Slide/Frame: Get some clean cotton cloths (again old laundered T-shirts) cut to about 7X7 inches or so. You will need at least 4 of these per cleaning. Get several Q-tips. Get a wooden chopstick and whittle the end to a chisel tip. Pipe cleaners also come in handy. Wet one of the cloths with solvent and wipe the inside of the frame and slide. Pay special attention to the breech face and extractor area. Use solvent wet Q-tips and a wet patch with the chopstick to get crud out of the rail and rail grooves, fouling out if the breech face and extractor claw. Pay attention to the locking lugs too. Use as many q-tips, cloths, and patches as you need for this. When satisfied, take your last clean dry cotton cloth and wipe dry all the solvent and crud from your slide/frame.
Look at all the metal flakes inside the slide. Clean out the slide with a patch and some solvent.
Do the same with the handle full of metal flakes.
Put the barrel and spring back together the same way they came apart just in reverse order.
Before re-assemebly make sure all the solvent is wiped dry. A blow works well for blowing out any residual solvent still hiding in hard to reach places. Inspect all the parts for wear, cracks, or breakage. Make sure to never over oil your gun. The better method for oiling any firearm is to use only a very very slightly dampened patch and wipe oil residue on the rails, lugs, and outside of the barrel before assembeling. All you need is a very slight and very thin film of oil on guns, you should barely be able to see it with your eyes. Remember that if you see any oil running or oosing out any time, you've got way too much oil.

Once in a while disassemble your magazines and clean them with solvent then wipe dry.
Put the slide back on the same way it came off. Pull it all the way back and lock it open with the slide catch lever.


Put the slide disassembly latch back in. UPDATE: Be sure that the barrel is all the way forward before attempting to replace the slide disassembly latch.


Thae spring makes insertion of the slide disassembly latch VERY difficult. Orient the slide disassembly latch with the tab facing the rear of the pistol and push it in. It will be hard but it does go in other side
Source: http://www.kaptain.us/guns/clean.html

Fahim
23-07-2009, 05:34 PM
Well the main thing u ll need for gun maintenance is the lubricating oil.. For which we hav a highly highly recommended formula from our very own Pakguns Expert Panel 12 Gauge..! :lol: I have reproduced the formula below for ur convinence.

Wonder lube
1. two parts dexron II/III (ZIC ATF III)
2. one part synthetic motor oil (ZIC XQ 5W40)
now call this mixture wonder lube

to make gun oil/lubricant
1. two parts wonder lube
2. one part kerosene..

Following is the link to the PakGuns Lube which ll elaborate it in detail.

http://www.pakguns.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=1189

Fahim
23-07-2009, 05:35 PM
But frankly speaking u go through the posts of the forum and u can surely be an assistant gunsmith.. lolz.. ;)

Yoosha
24-07-2009, 12:26 PM
thanx alot for the detailed details...:p
i hope u didnt go thru the hassel of typing it all...